LIFESTYLES OF THE RICH AND INFAMOUS

Vanity Fair, April 1992

Thanks to France’s open-door-to-despots pol­i­cy, exiled tyrants are turn­ing the Riv­iera into a new Gold Coast.

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BY FREDRIC DANNEN AND FIAMMETTA ROCCO

IT IS NOT MY BUSINESS to judge any­one,” says the head­wait­er at the Moulin de Mou­g­ins, a three-star restau­rant on the French Riv­iera. He is strain­ing for a com­ment about a for­mer patron, Jean-Claude “Baby Doc” Duva­lier, ex-dic­ta­tor of Haiti, who has lived in the South of France since his over­throw in Feb­ru­ary 1986. “What can I tell you? He’s quite charm­ing. I’m sure he could have your head cut off most agree­ably. It is all in the pre­sen­ta­tion.” When the restaurant’s own­er Roger Vergé stops by the table, he smiles at the men­tion of Duvalier’s name. Baby Doc was so fond of Vergé’s cui­sine that he had it deliv­ered, pay­ing the $2,000-a-day food bills in cash. But then Duva­lier split with Haiti’s for­mer First Lady, Michèle Ben­nett Duva­lier, and moved to anoth­er home far­ther down the Cannes autoroute. On a more pos­i­tive note, Pres­i­dent Mobu­tu Sese Seko of Zaire, des­per­ate­ly cling­ing to pow­er, may soon become the next dic­ta­tor to take refuge on the Riv­iera. “Mobu­tu has a house in Cap Mar­tin,” Vergé points out, adding for good mea­sure, “We are apo­lit­i­cal.”
     France has long played host to all man­ner of fall­en poten­tates while the rest of the world turned up its col­lec­tive nose. Even Omar Bon­go, the pres­i­dent of Gabon, had refused Duva­lier, report­ed­ly declar­ing, “Gabon n’est pas une poubelle”—Gabon is not a garbage can. French offi­cials are per­haps espe­cial­ly tick­lish about l’affaire Duva­lier right now because of the gid­dy prospect of hav­ing yet anoth­er noto­ri­ous exile in the South of France, turn­ing the long coast road into a Boule­vard of Bro­ken Dic­ta­tors.
     Mean­while, last August, a new name was added to the list of house­guests in France under asile régalien (lit­er­al­ly “roy­al asy­lum”), that of Gen­er­al Michel Aoun, com­man­der in chief of the Chris­t­ian Maronite forces in Lebanon. France has tra­di­tion­al­ly sup­port­ed the Maronites, and Pres­i­dent François Mit­ter­rand said that giv­ing Aoun refuge was “a mat­ter of hon­or.” The Mad Gen­er­al, hav­ing waged a bloody and futile “War of Lib­er­a­tion” against Syr­ia, and then a blood­i­er and even more sense­less “War of Uni­fi­ca­tion” against his fel­low Chris­tians, now sits in a safe house in Mar­seilles, where he remains under vir­tu­al house arrest, for his own pro­tec­tion. (His wife and three daugh­ters live under heavy secu­ri­ty near Paris.)
     The argu­ment made in favor of France’s hos­pi­tal­i­ty toward tyrants is the same one advanced by the U.S. State Depart­ment in accept­ing Fer­di­nand Mar­cos: if you offer a safe and com­fort­able haven to a dic­ta­tor, it may encour­age him to leave pow­er and avert fur­ther blood­shed. Despite this splen­did ratio­nale, it is dif­fi­cult to find any­one in the French gov­ern­ment will­ing to dis­cuss the sub­ject. Even Daniel Bernard, chief spokesman for the Quai d’Orsay, France’s for­eign min­istry, a man who usu­al­ly loves to cross swords with Amer­i­can jour­nal­ists, declined to dis­cuss his nation’s dic­ta­tors-in-res­i­dence pro­gram.
     Those of a cyn­i­cal turn of mind will tell you that France’s motives are more prag­mat­ic than human­i­tar­i­an. For one thing, dic­ta­tors-in-res­i­dence tend to be large importers of their nations’ wealth. Mobu­tu is a case in point: he is said to have amassed a per­son­al for­tune of $5 bil­lion, about the size of Zaire’s nation­al debt. The son of a hotel cook, Mobu­tu has been Zaire’s absolute despot for near­ly three decades and still insists that, despite the civ­il and mil­i­tary unrest that has torn apart his nation of near­ly 40 mil­lion, he has no plans to step down. But last fall his pri­vate plane car­ried one of his two wives and oth­er fam­i­ly mem­bers to the Vil­la del Mare, his four-sto­ry pink-and-white mar­ble palace in Cap Mar­tin. Mobu­tu once used the spec­tac­u­lar home—on twen­ty-five acres, com­plete with helipad—to host an unsuc­cess­ful peace con­fer­ence on behalf of Ango­la. He also report­ed­ly owns the Château Fond’roy, near Brus­sels, man­sions in Paris and Switzer­land, a cas­tle in Spain, and a ranch in Por­tu­gal.
    Sev­er­al of Mobutu’s allies, includ­ing France, have recent­ly cut off finan­cial aid in order to pres­sure him to accept demo­c­ra­t­ic reforms. Yet there is no rea­son to believe that France would for­bid Mobu­tu to set­tle in Cap Mar­tin or Paris, or ques­tion him too close­ly about the ori­gins of the wealth he would bring. Nor was any real scruti­ny applied to Baby Doc, whose arrival in France five weeks before a key elec­tion was an embar­rass­ment to the Social­ist gov­ern­ment. The one notable dis­ap­point­ment from a con­sumerist stand­point has been Emper­or Jean-Bedel Bokas­sa of the Cen­tral African Repub­lic, the only head of state in recent mem­o­ry to be tried for can­ni­bal­ism.
     In 1983, Bokas­sa took refuge in a château in Hardri­court, just west of Paris. While in pow­er, Bokas­sa had had enor­mous wealth at his dis­pos­al; he had even giv­en dia­monds to for­mer pres­i­dent Valéry Gis­card d’Estaing, the scan­dalous dis­clo­sure of which helped doom Giscard’s re-elec­tion cam­paign in 1981. But in France, Bokas­sa was bust­ed out. His water, tele­phone, and elec­tric­i­ty were often shut off for non­pay­ment, and he refused to post bail for his three chil­dren when they were caught shoplift­ing. Either because he was bored or broke, he returned home to Ban­gui in 1986 and was sen­tenced to death, a sen­tence ulti­mate­ly com­mut­ed to life in soli­tary con­fine­ment.
     Of course, the pres­ence of the Duva­liers is still a del­i­cate sub­ject, espe­cial­ly now that France is aggres­sive­ly sup­port­ing one of the for­mer despot’s great­est foes, Jean-Bertrand Aris­tide. The rev­o­lu­tion­ary Roman Catholic priest, who took office in Feb­ru­ary 1991 as Haiti’s first tru­ly demo­c­ra­t­i­cal­ly elect­ed pres­i­dent and was forced into exile by a mil­i­tary jun­ta sev­en months lat­er, has no staunch­er ally than France. The French gov­ern­ment even grant­ed its ambas­sador a medal of hon­or for pro­tect­ing Aristide’s life dur­ing the coup. He has also become the pet cause of First Lady Danielle Mit­ter­rand.
     Whether Aris­tide will return to pow­er remains an open ques­tion; Duva­lier should know his own return is beyond the realm of pos­si­bil­i­ty. The dull-wit­ted fat boy with boot-shaped side­burns, who, just shy of nine­teen, was thrust into office upon the sud­den death of his sadis­tic father, François “Papa Doc” Duva­lier, last­ed fif­teen years as “Pres­i­dent for Life.” His down­fall was all but guar­an­teed in 1980 when he mar­ried a coarse-mouthed mulat­te, Michèle Ben­nett, and then allowed her to loot the nation­al trea­sury. The end came on Feb­ru­ary 7, 1986, amid riot­ing. When the Duva­liers dis­em­barked in Greno­ble, Prime Min­is­ter Lau­rent Fabius declared that Baby Doc would be per­mit­ted to remain on French soil for eight days at most. That was six years ago.
     Those years in exile have not been kind to Duva­lier. The tub­by ex-dic­ta­tor has moved through a series of homes, each less lux­u­ri­ous than the last. He appears to be pay­ing for his female com­pan­ion­ship these days, hav­ing filed for divorce from his wife after she humil­i­at­ed him with a high­ly pub­lic love affair. She, mean­while, is con­test­ing the divorce—she wants more money—and now lives in Paris with a rich Lebanese arms mer­chant and her son and daugh­ter by Baby Doc. Every fort­night he goes up to Paris to spend a week­end with his chil­dren and to see a med­ical specialist—he is dia­bet­ic and, accord­ing to his lawyer, also has a thy­roid con­di­tion. Duva­lier will be forty this year. He seems a prime can­di­date for a mid-life cri­sis.
     It is even pos­si­ble, though not ter­ri­bly like­ly, that Duva­lier is run­ning out of mon­ey. He is known to have divert­ed at least $120 mil­lion from the Hait­ian trea­sury into his own for­eign bank accounts, and is sus­pect­ed of hav­ing tak­en more, though how much more is anyone’s guess. Today, he has at least one for­eign bank account with a large chunk of liq­uid cap­i­tal. Samir Mour­ra, a Hait­ian of Syr­i­an extrac­tion who is dis­tant­ly relat­ed to the fam­i­ly of Michèle Duva­lier, func­tions as Baby Doc’s couri­er. Every six weeks, Mour­ra dis­ap­pears for a day and returns with a valise full of cash in the trunk of his car—an esti­mat­ed $100,000 per trip.
     Baby Doc now lives in Vil­la Mel­i­ca, a two-sto­ry stonework house in Val­lau­ris, a small, qui­et burg near Cannes. He shares his home with Mour­ra, a few minables—poor friends and rel­a­tives from Haiti—and domes­tics. One neigh­bor who has seen the inside of the vil­la describes it as mod­est in size, a bit vul­gar in décor. Baby Doc rents it fur­nished from Théodore De Mel, the Ivory Coast’s for­mer ambas­sador to Lon­don. It is said that, after an unsight­ly crack appeared in the liv­ing-room wall, Duva­lier stopped pay­ing his rent.
     Last sum­mer Baby Doc threw him­self a birth­day cel­e­bra­tion at a hotel on the Cap d’Antibes, but apart from that, he appears to do no enter­tain­ing. His days seem to con­sist of sleep­ing late, hav­ing a long lunch at one of the restau­rants on the Croisette—a touristy prom­e­nade in Cannes—and then return­ing to the same beach­front for the nightlife. Neigh­bors often see him dri­ving his BMW, always alone, a blank expres­sion on his face. Now and then, a taxi pulls up to the vil­la and deposits a young Niçoise with long blond hair (“a tart,” one neigh­bor sniffs). Three nights a week on aver­age, Duva­lier ends up at La Chun­ga, a tacky Latin-style piano bar across from the Mar­tinez hotel, where, on a recent evening, a bad Tom Jones imi­ta­tor played an elec­tron­ic key­board and sang Amer­i­can pop stan­dards such as “Mrs. Robin­son” with an impen­e­tra­ble French accent. Dressed in a busi­ness suit, Duva­lier sits lis­ten­ing, look­ing grim and deter­mined, until the ear­ly hours of the morning.

FROM HIS DRAWING ROOM at the Vil­la Gaby, high atop a sea­wall on the Cor­niche Kennedy in Mar­seilles, Gen­er­al Aoun has a panoram­ic view of the ocean, and of the cadre of riot troops and munic­i­pal police armed with car­bines and semi-auto­mat­ics who patrol out in front. Met­al bar­ri­ers obstruct a long stretch of side­walk beneath the dig­ni­fied manse of yel­low and white stuc­co, forc­ing pedes­tri­ans to walk along the ocean, where they must pass through a gaunt­let of secu­ri­ty men. The seafront has the air of an armed camp.
    While the Unit­ed States charged the Shah of Iran for his pro­tec­tion when he vis­it­ed an Amer­i­can hos­pi­tal, French secu­ri­ty comes free, though the price is often enforced silence. This has proved dif­fi­cult for Michel Aoun, a man whose pom­pos­i­ty won him the nick­name “Nap­o­laoun.”
    While Baby Doc left Haiti a far rich­er man than Michel Aoun left Lebanon, one should not under­es­ti­mate the generalissimo’s resources. Two years ago, the French satir­i­cal week­ly Le Canard Enchainé dis­closed that he had two bank accounts at the Banque Nationale de Paris total­ing more than $15 mil­lion.
    The ques­tion of Aoun’s finan­cial resources will resur­face if his fol­low­ers in France man­age to pur­chase him a new home. One res­i­dence that has report­ed­ly been con­sid­ered is Lou Soubran, a man­sion near Nice that used to belong to Jacques Médecin, the city’s may­or. (In Sep­tem­ber 1990, Médecin, who had been may­or for almost twen­ty-five years and a vir­tu­al monarch on the Riv­iera, became France’s own king in exile when cus­toms offi­cials found $140,000 in cash in his lug­gage. He took refuge in Uruguay rather than face charges of embez­zle­ment.) When asked whether his peo­ple have indeed placed a bid on the Médecin house, Aoun is vague: “Yes, I heard that, too. I read it in the news­pa­pers. But, you know, I have no mon­ey. And, any­way, if I had mon­ey it would not go toward buy­ing hous­es.”
    Aoun is speak­ing by tele­phone, in open defi­ance of the gag order placed on him by the French gov­ern­ment. A few days lat­er, he sud­den­ly does broach the pos­si­bil­i­ty of becom­ing a home­own­er in France. “We are look­ing at a house in Orléans. You know Orléans? It is where Joan of Arc became famous. She was a leg­end. I too am a leg­end. Now Orléans will have two leg­ends. Isn’t that right?”
    It is an uncom­mon flash of humor for the fifty-six-year-old Aoun—that is, if he’s jok­ing. His con­fine­ment at the Vil­la Gaby has clear­ly demor­al­ized him. Aoun’s dis­tinc­tive voice, with its men­ac­ing lilt, has lost its ener­gy. He is a gen­er­al with­out a bat­tle­ground, reduced to put­ter­ing around the large house in his civvies. Unlike the oth­er Chris­t­ian mili­ti­a­men, who wore T‑shirts over their fatigues, Aoun’s men always dressed, like their boss, in the full Lebanese-army uni­form. Aoun’s thick fatigues also helped hold in his waist—the tough, com­pact fig­ure had start­ed to spread in mid­dle age. A recent vis­i­tor found him wear­ing loafers and an old cardi­gan, with bags under his eyes, look­ing as drawn and exhaust­ed as a man with a heart con­di­tion.
    Aoun had want­ed a face-to-face inter­view; it sound­ed as though he would have been glad for com­pa­ny. Reached from a pay phone a block from the Vil­la Gaby, he imme­di­ate­ly made an appoint­ment for the fol­low­ing morn­ing. But the next morn­ing came, and it proved impos­si­ble to get through to the gen­er­al on his pri­vate phone line. His link to the out­side world was out of order. Anoth­er num­ber at the vil­la was answered by a French offi­cial. There will be no inter­view, he said. No rea­son was giv­en.
    It was a cru­el twist for Aoun to have some­one else bar­ring his doors against vis­i­tors. For two years, he had bar­ri­cad­ed him­self inside the pres­i­den­tial palace at Baab­da, just out­side Beirut. A butcher’s son who rose rapid­ly through the mil­i­tary, Aoun had become Lebanon’s act­ing head of state by default in Sep­tem­ber 1988, when Pres­i­dent Amin Gemayel failed to win a plu­ral­i­ty. Gemayel is said to have anoint­ed Aoun fif­teen min­utes before head­ing for the air­port to spend his retirement—and some of his esti­mat­ed bil­lion dol­lars in embez­zled funds—in, of all places, Paris. About a year lat­er, fifty-eight con­sti­tu­tion­al­ly elect­ed Chris­t­ian M.P.’s gath­ered at a dis­used air base in Lebanon to vote for a new pres­i­dent, despite a warn­ing from Aoun that those who did so might place their lives in dan­ger. They chose René Moawad, a man instant­ly denounced by Aoun as a pro-Syr­i­an stooge. On the dusty grounds out­side the palace, Aoun’s guards teth­ered an old don­key and paint­ed on its flank the words I LOVE MOAWAD in Ara­bic. Moawad was too fright­ened to ven­ture back into Chris­t­ian East Beirut. He took refuge out­side the city for a few weeks, then embarked for most­ly Mus­lim West Beirut for inau­gu­ra­tion cer­e­monies. On his way there, his car was blown up by a bomb; he died instant­ly.
    Moawad’s death left Syr­i­an-backed Elias Hrawi in charge. But Aoun faced anoth­er chal­lenge, too—from his fel­low Chris­tians, the 10,000-strong Pha­langist mili­tia. By ear­ly 1990, Syr­i­an forces were able to set­tle back and enjoy the spec­ta­cle of two Chris­t­ian fac­tions killing each oth­er. In Octo­ber, Aoun final­ly capit­u­lat­ed to Hrawi and was spir­it­ed to the French Embassy—apparently, as Robert Fisk of The Inde­pen­dent put it, “pre­fer­ring cof­fee with the French ambas­sador to falling on his sword.” He remained there for ten months before the Lebanese gov­ern­ment grant­ed him a “spe­cial par­don” and a forty-eight-hour safe-con­duct pass. A con­voy drove him to a naval base in north­ern Beirut, where he was put on an inflat­able speed­boat and tak­en to a sub­ma­rine two miles off­shore, bound for Cyprus.
    No soon­er had Aoun arrived in Mar­seilles than French for­eign min­is­ter Roland Dumas appeared on tele­vi­sion to express his “plea­sure” at the general’s arrival, once again baf­fling the rest of the world over the vagaries of French for­eign pol­i­cy. France had offi­cial­ly backed Pres­i­dent Hrawi, though Aoun remained enor­mous­ly pop­u­lar with the French peo­ple, who seemed to share the belief of the general’s die-hard Maronite loy­al­ists that his goal was to unite all of Lebanon into one Chris­t­ian-led democ­ra­cy. At a press con­fer­ence a few days after Aoun’s arrival, Pres­i­dent Mit­ter­rand acknowl­edged that the general’s poli­cies had sad­ly pit­ted Chris­t­ian against Chris­t­ian and strength­ened the grip of for­eign armies on Lebanese soil. He offered no insight into France’s eager­ness to wel­come him.
    Now, after more than a year in French cus­tody, Aoun is bored. In what will become an almost dai­ly dis­course on the phone, Aoun requests books: the first two vol­umes of William Manchester’s biog­ra­phy of Win­ston Churchill, and The Sam­son Option, Sey­mour Hersh’s recent exposé of Israel’s nuclear capa­bil­i­ty. “That Hersh, he has real­ly made a noise there,” Aoun says. The gen­er­al is strug­gling to keep up with cur­rent events—he inquires about the Mid­dle East peace talks and rumors that Israeli prime min­is­ter Yitzhak Shamir will step down and spark an ear­ly gen­er­al elec­tion. This seems a good idea to Aoun. “Elec­tions are very impor­tant. The peo­ple must decide. That is what the bib­li­cal notion of the shep­herd is all about. A shep­herd can­not aban­don his flock, so a leader must not turn his back on his peo­ple.” Appar­ent­ly, polit­i­cal asy­lum has dulled the general’s sense of irony.
    Above all, Aoun sounds annoyed with the French, who have saved him from almost cer­tain assas­si­na­tion. One after­noon, before con­sid­er­ing his move to Orléans, he is struck by anoth­er thought entire­ly. “What is the weath­er in Lon­don? Is it cold, rain­ing? Will they take me in Eng­land? Ask them for me, will you? Please. But maybe I should wait until the weath­er is warmer.
    “If I have done wrong,” Aoun says, “then let the world know about it. Let me be put before a jury. But you can’t con­demn me to silence like this. You can­not hold a man like this. I want to get out. I want to get out of here.”

EIGHTY-FIVE MILES east of Aoun’s fortress home, Pierre Don­net, the may­or of Val­lau­ris, is reclin­ing in a black Eames chair behind his semi­cir­cu­lar desk at the town hall. He seems a bit tak­en aback by the sub­ject at hand.
    “Jean-Claude Duva­lier? I was nev­er offi­cial­ly informed of his pres­ence in my town. For me, his exis­tence is anony­mous. I have nev­er met him.… No one has dis­cussed him with me, eh? Not the pre­fec­ture, not the police, not the Ren­seigne­ments Généraux [French fed­er­al police].… This is a deci­sion that comes from the state, from the Min­istry of For­eign Affairs. Since I was nev­er informed offi­cial­ly of any­thing, I don’t even know if his res­i­dence is sur­veilled in my town. Evi­dent­ly, it’s a sur­veilled res­i­dence, and he has accounts to ren­der to the police. I don’t know.”
    Still, Don­net is being a good sport about it, or per­haps he real­ly doesn’t care all that much. By con­trast, in March 1986, when Duva­lier arrived with his entourage at their first home, a ten-room vil­la in Grasse, the local may­or, Hervé de Font­michel, was in an uproar. No one had informed him either, and in a state­ment pub­lished in the Riviera’s lead­ing news­pa­per, Nice-Matin, he declared that “the pop­u­la­tion, the munic­i­pal coun­cil, and I are out­raged at this show of force, born of the alliance between the cur­rent Social­ist gov­ern­ment and Mr. Duva­lier.… My posi­tion is quite clear: I reprove this deci­sion.” So did a num­ber of locals, who pick­et­ed and scrib­bled anti-Duva­lier graf­fi­ti on walls.
    Duva­lier appar­ent­ly has nev­er felt the need to defend him­self, and he long ago stopped giv­ing inter­views. One of his last, which appeared in Paris Match in Feb­ru­ary 1988, con­tained few sur­pris­es, apart from his unex­pect­ed fond­ness for the nick­name Baby Doc. He blamed his down­fall on a host of unfair and exoge­nous vari­ables, from a hos­tile Amer­i­can press and State Depart­ment (“For­eign affairs is not the forte of Amer­i­can pol­i­tics”) to racism and the effect of the AIDS scare on tourism (“We are the four bad H’s: homo­sex­u­als, hero­in junkies, hemo­phil­i­acs, and Haitians”). He could find no fault with him­self or his wife. “Michèle is very beau­ti­ful and thus very much envied. The peo­ple loved her. It was nec­es­sary to attack her to bring me down.”
    Not that he had ever sought or been groomed for the pres­i­den­cy. “The son of a bitch nev­er told me any­thing,” Baby Doc once said of his father, accord­ing to Eliz­a­beth Abbott’s rich­ly detailed his­to­ry, Haiti: The Duva­liers and Their Lega­cy. Jean-Claude, the only boy of four chil­dren, was five years old when Papa Doc took pow­er in 1957 in a rigged elec­tion and moved his fam­i­ly into the Nation­al Palace in Port-au-Prince. Nick­named “Fat Pota­to” and “Bas­ket­head,” the young Duva­lier vied to be last in his class, until, leg­end has it, he forced the teach­ers to stop post­ing his grades. François Duva­lier had lit­tle time for his son, apart from occa­sion­al­ly storm­ing into his room to unplug the record play­er.
    Papa Doc was not only a man of brutality—he ordered school­child­ren to wit­ness polit­i­cal exe­cu­tions and liked to com­mune with the sev­ered heads of his enemies—but a thief on a spec­tac­u­lar scale. He had risen to pow­er on a cam­paign of noirisme—Haiti’s black major­i­ty had long been oppressed by the nation’s mulattoes—then sold black Haitians into vir­tu­al slav­ery, for $1 mil­lion a year, to work on the sug­ar plan­ta­tions of light-skinned Domini­cans.
    The old­est child, Marie-Denise—“Sister Doc”—was far more intel­li­gent and ambi­tious than her broth­er, and the odds-on favorite to suc­ceed their father. But in 1971, Duva­lier, now ter­mi­nal­ly ill, was warned by his advis­ers that Haitians would not tol­er­ate a young woman as pres­i­dent. Posters soon appeared on walls and bill­boards every­where, show­ing a frail Papa Doc rest­ing a hand on his son’s beefy shoul­der, with the cap­tion: “I have cho­sen him.” François Duva­lier died on April 21, a week after his six­ty-fourth birth­day. Baby Doc was so distraught—more like­ly from the shock of find­ing him­self the new Prési­dent à Vie than from grief—that he took an over­dose of Val­i­um and missed the funer­al.
    The young pres­i­dent appeared to devote more time to his favorite hobbies—racing cars and motor­cy­cles, hunt­ing, and sleep­ing with every avail­able female—than to gov­ern­ing his coun­try. The Ton­tons Macoute, his father’s ruth­less civ­il mili­tia, still ter­ror­ized the pop­u­lace, and Baby Doc left most deci­sions to his moth­er, Simone “Mama Doc” Duvalier—that is, until anoth­er woman came along to shove her aside. Michèle Ben­nett first encoun­tered the pres­i­dent-to-be as a twelve-year-old class­mate at Col­lege Bird, near the palace. In 1963 a failed assas­si­na­tion attempt on Baby Doc and his sis­ter Simone, which claimed the lives of their three body­guards and chauf­feur, occurred in front of the school. Alarmed, Michèle’s father spir­it­ed her off to St. Mary’s Con­vent in Peek­skill, New York. She lat­er moved to Man­hat­tan, work­ing for a fam­i­ly that man­u­fac­tured slip­pers for big-foot­ed women. Michèle returned to Haiti in the late sev­en­ties as a divor­cée with two sons and a rep­u­ta­tion for her sex­u­al prowess. After she and Baby Doc were paired up at the Duva­lier ranch, he sup­pos­ed­ly announced that he had final­ly met his match. Their wed­ding in 1980 made the Guin­ness Book of World Records as one of the costli­est ever.
    The First Lady’s indul­gences became leg­endary. Pre­fer­ring Miami’s flow­ers to her nation’s own, she had them flown in at a cost of $50,000 a month. A refrig­er­a­tion unit was installed in the palace to pre­serve her grow­ing sup­ply of fur coats, acquired on mil­lion-dol­lar shop­ping sprees in New York and Paris, and her col­lec­tion of jew­els required a mobile vault. “She didn’t think of her coun­try as any­thing except a cook­ie jar,” says an inves­ti­ga­tor who worked for post-Duva­lier Haiti.
    The Unit­ed States turned on the dic­ta­tor in ear­ly 1986, with White House spokesman Lar­ry Speakes mis­tak­en­ly announc­ing that Duva­lier had left Haiti. Pan­ick­ing, Jean-Claude got on the air­waves to announce that he was still “strong as a monkey’s tail,” but a week lat­er the Duva­lier clan threw a final cham­pagne par­ty, then drove to the air­port, where a U.S. Air Force C‑141 was wait­ing to car­ry them to France.
    When the plane touched down in Greno­ble, the local préfet, a mere civ­il ser­vant, was the high­est-rank­ing French offi­cial there to greet Duva­lier. A week lat­er, on Feb­ru­ary 14, he was hit with an order of expul­sion, signed by Inte­ri­or Min­is­ter Pierre Joxe. Mean­while, For­eign Min­is­ter Roland Dumas wrote a let­ter to U.S. sec­re­tary of state George Shultz that said. in effect: You take him. But apart from pro­vid­ing the plane to remove him from Port-au-Prince, the Unit­ed States, which had its hands full with the Mar­cos prob­lem, want­ed noth­ing to do with Baby Doc. Nego­ti­a­tions to get Liberia to accept Duva­lier fell through. In any case, accord­ing to Philippe Madelin, a reporter for Télévi­sion Française at work on a book about the stolen wealth of for­mer dic­ta­tors, France’s efforts to expel Duva­lier were “a ruse for the sake of pub­lic opin­ion. In real­i­ty, the French gov­ern­ment had decid­ed to give him roy­al asy­lum. It was a deci­sion of state.”
    Evi­dent­ly, a deal had been nego­ti­at­ed by Baby Doc’s high-pow­ered French lawyer, Sauveur Vaisse. Once a rad­i­cal who defend­ed Alger­ian rebels against the gov­ern­ment of de Gaulle, Vaisse was recruit­ed by Papa Doc in the late six­ties to serve a cause rather less hero­ic: he per­suad­ed the French courts to ban the film ver­sion of Gra­ham Greene’s The Come­di­ans, a scathing por­trait of Papa Doc’s Haiti. Now in his late fifties, with a griz­zled beard that makes him look like a Mar­seilles fish­er­man, Vaisse speaks elo­quent­ly of his attach­ment to the Duva­lier cause. A typ­i­cal pro­nounce­ment: “I became per­suad­ed that a lot of the crit­i­cism of the regime of François Duva­lier was racist.”
    Vaisse is less help­ful in explain­ing the pecu­liar nature of Baby Doc’s sta­tus in France. Duva­lier has no offi­cial papers or iden­ti­ty card, and one pre­sumes that his Hait­ian diplo­mat­ic pass­port is no longer valid. For all prac­ti­cal pur­pos­es, he is a non­per­son. The only doc­u­ments issued him by the French gov­ern­ment have been Joxe’s expul­sion order and a con­tra­dic­to­ry order issued three days lat­er, called an assig­na­tion à résidence. This is a writ that requires a per­son to live with­in a spe­cif­ic area—Duvalier was con­demned to the Alpes-Mar­itimes, which includes the choic­est sec­tion of the French Riv­iera.
    It was just as well that Baby Doc and his dozen rel­a­tives and domes­tics had to leave Tal­loires, their first stop after Greno­ble. Accom­mo­da­tions at the four-star Hôtel de l’Abbaye came to more than $12,000 a day. (Michèle paid with her Din­ers Club, Amer­i­can Express, and Visa Carte Bleue.) The Duva­lier clan relo­cat­ed to La Touril­lière, a five-acre prop­er­ty with a swim­ming pool and ten­nis court, in Grasse. Baby Doc rent­ed the house from Dutch busi­ness­man Huber­tus Nijssen for about $7,000 a month. Per­haps because of the protests and anti-Duva­lier graf­fi­ti, Baby Doc did not renew his lease, but instead moved on again, to Moha­me­dia, a vil­la in Mou­g­ins that belonged to Mohamed Khashog­gi, son of arms mer­chant Adnan Khashog­gi. Now his rent was down to $6,500 a month, but the vil­la was next to a let­tuce farm and had small rooms.
    In this cramped envi­ron­ment, the stage was set for mar­i­tal strife. As it was, Baby Doc was hav­ing adjust­ment prob­lems. Only twice in his life had he ven­tured out­side Haiti, both times for brief vis­its to France. In a 1986 inter­view with Van­i­ty Fair, Michèle mocked her husband’s dif­fi­cul­ty in dis­tin­guish­ing the side­walk from the road and in per­form­ing such men­tal­ly tax­ing chores as tele­phon­ing for reser­va­tions at the Moulin de Mou­g­ins. Duva­lier, who is ter­ri­fied of snakes, found one swim­ming across his pool and would not use it again. The couple’s children—three-year-old Nico­las and one-year-old Anya—were ter­ror­iz­ing the house. (“Anya, she’s a hur­ri­cane,” Michèle said at the time. “The oth­er day she ate three lip­sticks.”)
    The only relief from the bore­dom and ten­sion, it seemed, was sex, in which both Jean-Claude and Michèle main­tained a healthy inter­est, though not with each oth­er. Jean-Claude was said to be dis­creet about his love affairs, keep­ing a bachelor’s apart­ment in Cannes to enter­tain Hait­ian girl­friends he had flown in from Port-au-Prince and Mia­mi. Michèle was less dis­creet. “She cheat­ed on him in the most shock­ing way,” says a Paris-based source who has known the cou­ple for years. “She had a lit­tle boyfriend when she was eigh­teen years old. Now he’s forty, and work­ing at some job at a bank in Haiti. She paid his plane fare to Nice and spent a cou­ple of days with him, this guy she hadn’t seen for more than twen­ty years. And told Jean-Claude about it. It’s rough, eh?”
    All the same, Duva­lier appeared to want to pre­serve his mar­riage, until anoth­er exiled Hait­ian began bad­ger­ing him to get a divorce. Dr. Roger Lafontant, the for­mer head of the Ton­tons Macoute, had long hat­ed Michèle, first mere­ly for being a mulat­to and then for forc­ing him to mar­ry his mis­tress in prepa­ra­tion for Pope John Paul II’s 1983 vis­it to Haiti—he could not shake the hand of His Holi­ness, she insist­ed, if he was liv­ing in sin. Lafontant argued that Michèle’s unpop­u­lar­i­ty had cost Baby Doc the pres­i­den­cy, and that it could be his again if he would leave her. “Jean-Claude let him­self be swayed by Lafontant, though the divorce was not real­ly his wish,” says a man who served under Duva­lier. “He loved his wife. I believe he still loves her.”
    Lafontant tapped the ex-dic­ta­tor for $400,000, more than enough to buy a divorce in the Domini­can Repub­lic with­out hav­ing to set foot there. (The actu­al cost of the bogus divorce decree, in fact, was a mere $14,000.) Michèle seemed per­fect­ly will­ing to split with her hus­band of nine years, and prompt­ly resumed using her maid­en name. How­ev­er, she was less than thrilled with the alimo­ny set by the Domini­can court: about $7,500 a month. She is now chal­leng­ing the divorce in France on the grounds that her husband’s doc­u­ments are forg­eries.
    As for Lafontant, though he made a hand­some prof­it as a divorce bro­ker, the mon­ey was soon spent, and Baby Doc refused to give him any more. Short of funds, Lafontant defied an arrest war­rant for trea­son and returned to Haiti. In Jan­u­ary 1991, a few weeks after the elec­tion of Father Aris­tide, he briefly seized pow­er in a blood­less coup-”I am the pres­i­dent now and we are very busy form­ing a new gov­ern­ment,” he told The New York Times—then was thrown in jail and lat­er exe­cut­ed.
    As for Baby Doc, his noto­ri­ety has large­ly fad­ed. Cannes natives have become so indif­fer­ent to his pres­ence that when they refer to him at all it is often as “Papa Doc.” Apart from a tele­vi­sion cam­era at the front gate, there are no secu­ri­ty mea­sures in evi­dence at the Vil­la Melica—a dra­mat­ic con­trast to the vil­la in Mou­g­ins, where a shot­gun-wield­ing secu­ri­ty man crouched behind a cypress tree, and Grasse, where the grounds were teem­ing with geese, guar­an­teed to launch into honk­ing con­nip­tions at the first sign of a tres­pass­er. The only ani­mal you are like­ly to encounter at the Mel­i­ca is the caretaker’s ancient, drooly-mouthed Dober­man or one of Baby Doc’s Chi­huahuas.
    The care­tak­er, a stocky for­mer police com­mis­saire with an iron-gray crew cut, is employed by the land­lord, Ambas­sador De Mel, not by Duva­lier, whom he appar­ent­ly loathes. “When the care­tak­er talks about Baby, he’s always bitch­ing,” says a neigh­bor. “He says Baby is rude, arro­gant, and talks down to him like a ser­vant. And he won’t pay for things. The care­tak­er has a real prob­lem try­ing to get the upkeep mon­ey out of him.”

MY HUSBAND—I call him my hus­band because we are still not divorced—they say he was a dic­ta­tor. But they know that is not true. Aris­tide was the dic­ta­tor.”
    Six years of exile have done noth­ing to take the gin­ger out of Michèle Ben­nett. As she talks by phone from her Paris apart­ment, there is plen­ty of exu­ber­ance in her husky voice. And, as ever, a need to talk, even at the expense of her French hosts.
    “France hasn’t been doing well with for­eign affairs,” she says. “And now the French are sup­port­ing Aris­tide. Mme. Mit­ter­rand is push­ing for that … priest. I’m more angry at the posi­tion of France than the Unit­ed States. I know the Unit­ed States didn’t like Aris­tide, but as he was elect­ed demo­c­ra­t­i­cal­ly, they had to say some­thing pos­i­tive. Although, you know, Haitians don’t go to the polls. How can you have a democ­ra­cy when you have so many illit­er­ate peo­ple?”
    Ben­nett puts her caller on hold and a set of chimes mer­ri­ly plays “Greensleeves.” Moments lat­er, she is back and on a tear: “Sure, Aris­tide was pop­u­lar. He’s from the slums, like the peo­ple.… Pol­i­tics, I was in it by acci­dent. I have no polit­i­cal ambi­tion for myself, and nev­er did—unlike a lot of women. I don’t crit­i­cize.”
    With that, she signs off by remind­ing her caller that she no longer gives inter­views.
    It seems appro­pri­ate to pay an unso­licit­ed call on Madame La Prési­dente. Her regal eagle nest is in the Six­teenth Arrondisse­ment, on the Right Bank of the Seine, in one of those majes­tic old build­ings with a foy­er large enough for touch foot­ball. Mon­sieur Robert, a black manser­vant, opens the door to her apart­ment. Down the long red-car­pet­ed cor­ri­dor, one can observe with awe the Ver­sailles-like touches—crystal chan­de­liers, a dra­mat­ic mar­ble stair­case, and floor-to-ceil­ing oil paint­ings that are either old Flem­ish mas­ter­works or suit­able repli­cas.
    “What a sur­prise,” Michèle Ben­nett says as her vis­i­tor is escort­ed in. She sits at an antique sec­re­taire, doing her day’s work, which con­sists of answer­ing mail and mak­ing notes for her mem­oirs. A Pavarot­ti CD is play­ing on the stereo. There is no sign of her Lebanese arms-mer­chant con­sort, whose exis­tence in her life she does not acknowledge—even one of her friends knows him only by his first name, Alexan­dre. No less rav­ish­ing than usu­al, and drip­ping with gold and pre­cious stones, Ben­nett apol­o­gizes for not being “made up” to receive a vis­i­tor. She wears a knit chemise fea­tur­ing the title char­ac­ters from One Hun­dred and One Dal­ma­tians, and it is hard to sup­press the thought that with her cig­a­rettes and love of furs she could have been a mod­el for Cruel­la De Vil. Ben­nett chain-smokes Dun­hills. “I need to quit. I’m los­ing my voice. I always had a hard voice, not real­ly sweet like some women, but it’s becom­ing worse because of cig­a­rettes. The doc­tor told me I have very frag­ile vocal cords.”
    She must keep the con­ver­sa­tion brief, she says, because it is almost time to take Anya to her bal­let les­son. Baby Doc’s daugh­ter and son are now six and eight, and have calmed down a bit. The sub­ject of her two oth­er sons, in school in Mia­mi, caus­es some dis­tress. “I am not as yet able to leave the coun­try,” she says. “And the only thing that might both­er me is that if my boys in the States need me I can­not go. So I touch wood they don’t get sick.
    “But,” she con­tin­ues, “I’m not a per­son who com­plains. We nev­er had any prob­lems in France. After Haiti, France is our sec­ond home. I’m lead­ing a nor­mal life. I have lots of friends that are French. Paris is beau­ti­ful and we are lucky to be here. Of course, I do miss Haiti. You know, there is noth­ing bet­ter than home.”
    Asked whether she miss­es her hus­band, Ben­nett smiles coquet­tish­ly. “Divorce is very sad for the chil­dren,” she says at last. “But some­times it happens.”

MICHÈLE BENNETT has good rea­son to keep qui­et about her divorce. The dis­pute over her set­tle­ment has put her and Jean Claude Duva­lier in a del­i­cate posi­tion. She wants half of her husband’s assets, and if she names a spe­cif­ic fig­ure, it will final­ly become known just how much he stole. Esti­mates have ranged as high as $800 mil­lion, which, at three times Haiti’s annu­al bud­get, may be a bit unre­al­is­tic. But there is no ques­tion that $120 mil­lion was his min­i­mum haul—he left a paper trail of checks total­ing this sum, drawn on gov­ern­ment accounts at com­mer­cial banks in Haiti. What no one knows is how much mon­ey went out in suit­cas­es.
    Sauveur Vaisse, how­ev­er, refus­es to think of his client as a thief. “The accu­sa­tion has absolute­ly not been demon­strat­ed,” he says. “Not at all.… We have records to show that a lot of the funds they accuse Jean-Claude Duva­lier of keep­ing for him­self were in fact used for the pub­lic good.”
    Haiti has recov­ered only a frac­tion of Baby Doc’s wealth, and large­ly has itself to blame. Each new gov­ern­ment over the past six years has sworn to crack down on Duva­lier, then lim­it­ed the effec­tive­ness of the law firms and pri­vate inves­ti­ga­tors in charge of the effort by not pro­vid­ing cru­cial doc­u­ments and witnesses—and not pay­ing its bills. Appar­ent­ly, every admin­is­tra­tion until Aristide’s had its own secrets to con­ceal. France’s coop­er­a­tion in the case against Duva­lier has also been ambigu­ous, sug­gest­ing the lack of a defin­i­tive pol­i­cy on the ex-dic­ta­tor. At one point, the French gov­ern­ment dropped hints that it would con­sid­er a motion by Haiti to change Baby Doc’s assig­na­tion à résidence and force him to move to some grub­by north­ern min­ing town or even French Guiana. But Haiti nev­er made the request.
    Instead, Duva­lier has mere­ly had to endure some harass­ment. His worst day was Feb­ru­ary 11, 1988. At six that morn­ing, by order of the tri­bunal of Grasse, fif­teen French offi­cials descend­ed with­out warn­ing on his vil­la in Mou­g­ins with a search war­rant. They came look­ing for finan­cial doc­u­ments, to be turned over to the Hait­ian gov­ern­ment. The Duva­liers were roust­ed from their beds and Michèle had no time to dis­pose of her pink-and-pur­ple suede note­book, in which she kept a record of the pres­i­den­tial couple’s expen­di­tures. The note­book con­firmed that the Duva­liers paid vir­tu­al­ly all their bills in cash, includ­ing $10,475 for their phone bill in Decem­ber 1987. The same month, Michèle spent $455,000 at Boucheron, her favorite Paris jeweler—$13,000 went toward a cig­a­rette lighter. Some of the small­er sums were cash dis­burse­ments to “Ton­ton,” her curi­ous nick­name for her hus­band. There was also a clue to Sauveur Vaisse’s con­tin­ued loy­al­ty to the cause of Duva­lierism: legal fees total­ing $425,000, paid to him in cold cash.

VAISSE’s prin­ci­pal legal neme­sis in Haiti’s case against Duva­lier wasn’t in it for the mon­ey, which was just as well. Hait­ian-born Jacques Salès is a merg­ers-and-acqui­si­tions spe­cial­ist with a French doc­tor­ate in law and a post­doc degree from Har­vard. The night Duva­lier was over­thrown, Salès went out to cel­e­brate. “I got kind of drunk,” he says, “and I decid­ed that I would par­tic­i­pate in the effort to recu­per­ate the mon­ey that had been stolen. I thought I owed some­thing to my coun­try.”
    Friends of Salès’s believed there was anoth­er, dark­er rea­son for his tak­ing the ease. Around 1970 his sis­ter Gilberte became one of Baby Doc’s favorite mis­tress­es, Even­tu­al­ly they broke off their rela­tion­ship and she left Haiti. For years after­ward they didn’t see each oth­er, but she returned in the spring of 1985 with her fiancé, Dr. Ray­mond Bernadin. About a week before the wed­ding, she and Bernadin were attacked in their car, appar­ent­ly by the Ton­tons Macoute, and burned with sul­fu­ric acid. Gilberte Salès was air­lift­ed to Mount Sinai Med­ical Cen­ter in Mia­mi with hor­ri­ble burns on her face, neck, breasts, and stom­ach. She lin­gered for two weeks before dying; Bernadin lived and today prac­tices med­i­cine in Haiti. An arti­cle on the inci­dent in Haïti-Obser­va­teur, an influ­en­tial news­pa­per pub­lished from New York, asked “whom such a crime would ben­e­fit,” and sug­gest­ed an answer: “It has been con­firmed that Michèle Ben­nett had ‘good rea­son to believe’ that all was not real­ly over between her hus­band and Gilberte Salès.”
    Jacques Salès seems to have no doubt that the order to kill his sis­ter emanat­ed from the Nation­al Palace. But he fer­vent­ly denies that her death is what moti­vat­ed him to go up against the Duva­liers. “When I first learned she had a liai­son with Jean-Claude Duva­lier, Gilberte became for­eign to me—she was no longer my sis­ter,” he says, his eyes as hard as enam­el. “Dear friends of mine had been killed by Papa Doc, and I could not under­stand how some­body from my fam­i­ly could have a rela­tion­ship with the son of a mon­ster. So the fact that my sis­ter was killed by Duva­lier thugs did not influ­ence my deci­sion to take the case.”
    The gov­ern­ment of Haiti retained the New York firm of Stroock & Stroock & Lavan, oth­er attor­neys in Eng­land and Switzer­land. and the inter­na­tion­al pri­vate-eye firm Kroll Asso­ciates. The legal strat­e­gy nev­er varied—Duvalier should be tried in France, not in absen­tia in Haiti, where a ver­dict against him might be per­ceived as prej­u­diced. First, the lawyers for Haiti applied to the tri­bunal of Grasse, but in June 1987 the judge ruled that the French court was not com­pé­tent to try a for­mer head of state. Undaunt­ed, the lawyers turned to the court of appeals in Aix-en-Provence, which in April 1988 reversed the deci­sion and agreed to hear the case on its mer­its. Com­ing on the heels of the morn­ing police raid that had yield­ed Michèle’s note­book, the rul­ing looked omi­nous for Baby Doc. This time Sauveur Vaisse filed an appeal, to the Cour de Cassation—the high­est appeals court—in Paris.
    Unfor­tu­nate­ly, none of the lawyers for Haiti had been paid even their expens­es, and only Jacques Salès would con­tin­ue to work at full speed under those con­di­tions. “The lawyers hat­ed to give up, but they couldn’t work for noth­ing, so it was a very reduced effort,” says the head of Kroll Asso­ciates’ office in France, an asset spe­cial­ist with the won­der­ful­ly improb­a­ble name of Bruce Dol­lar. On May 29, 1990, the Cour de Cas­sa­tion reversed the Aix-en-Provence deci­sion, rul­ing that France was indeed not qual­i­fied to try Baby Doc for embez­zle­ment. “The deci­sion was real­ly too bad from a num­ber of points of view,” Dol­lar says, “includ­ing prece­dent for oth­er cas­es. It’s very good for dic­ta­tors in France.”
    In the end, Haiti enjoyed only some mod­est vic­to­ries against Baby Doc. The lawyers were able to freeze cer­tain of his assets: a yacht in Mia­mi; a mod­est château in dis­re­pair at Théméri­court, near Paris; a $2.5 mil­lion con­do­mini­um in Trump Tow­er in New York; a $200,000 bank account Michèle had at Irv­ing Trust, also in New York. Apart from these, the only pay­off was a lot of accu­mu­lat­ed knowl­edge about Duvalier’s finan­cial chi­canery, and enough doc­u­ments to fill sev­en­teen vol­umes. One find­ing was espe­cial­ly intrigu­ing: in July 1987 three French­men with­drew $35 mil­lion in bear­er bonds from the Union Bank of Switzer­land on behalf of Baby Doc. An exam­i­na­tion of the three men showed them to have long crim­i­nal records, for vio­lent crimes and drug traf­fick­ing.
    But, for the most part, Duva­lier didn’t need to deal with dis­rep­utable peo­ple. “One of his pri­ma­ry advis­ers,” says Bruce Dol­lar, “was a very promi­nent, very respect­ed Swiss lawyer, who was also a lawyer for Chase Man­hat­tan. His name is Jean Patry. He met per­son­al­ly with Jean-Claude and Michèle. Some­one with Baby Doc’s kind of wealth can hire the best. You don’t have to be smart; all you have to be is rich. You can hire smart.”
    One smart thing Patry’s firm did for Baby Doc was to con­vert $42 mil­lion into Cana­di­an trea­sury bills, pur­chased at the Roy­al Bank of Cana­da. The trans­ac­tion was car­ried out by Patry’s law part­ner Alain Le Fort. Then a British solic­i­tor intro­duced to Duva­lier by Patry, John Stephen Matlin of the Lon­don law firm Turn­er & Co., was put in charge of man­ag­ing the mon­ey. (Accord­ing to a Matlin memo, he ini­tial­ly had trep­i­da­tions, but Patry assured him that some of the Duva­liers’ wealth was inher­it­ed. Despite this, Patry indi­cat­ed that Matlin was now on his own.) Under Matlin’s admin­is­tra­tion, the $42 mil­lion cir­cu­lat­ed one or more times through Switzer­land, even though that coun­try had a stand­ing order to seize any Duva­lier account. Per­haps the Swiss didn’t know it was Baby Doc’s mon­ey, because Matlin had been asked to open the accounts in the name of nom­i­nee front com­pa­nies. By the time Kroll Asso­ciates pin­point­ed the $42 mil­lion, it was at Bar­clays Bank in Lon­don, where it also could have been seized. But Kroll got there a few days too late; Matlin had already moved it once again, to Lux­em­bourg. Baby Doc still has the mon­ey, unless he has spent it.

IF THE FRENCH GOVERNMENT is look­ing for Duvalier’s hid­den wealth, it isn’t look­ing very hard, as Baby Doc has dis­cov­ered. His couri­er, Samir Mour­ra, makes his mys­te­ri­ous trips for the $100,000 cash infu­sions; pre­sum­ably, he does not make a cus­toms dec­la­ra­tion on his return. “The French author­i­ties must know about Samir Mour­ra and the money…yet noth­ing is done about it. Why?” asks Chris­t­ian Lionet, a Haiti spe­cial­ist for the French news­pa­per Libéra­tion. It is clear that Duvalier’s roy­al asy­lum also comes with cer­tain king­ly priv­i­leges. Accord­ing to Lionet, Baby Doc has been stopped sev­er­al times by the police on the autoroute to Paris for dri­ving his BMW at speeds of more than 200 kilo­me­ters per hour. “In France, that is a very seri­ous infrac­tion,” says Lionet. “If you did that, you could be fined two or three thou­sand dol­lars, and your license would be tak­en away for six months or a year. But the French author­i­ties have closed their eyes to it.”
    But these are mat­ters that no one in the gov­ern­ment seems eager to address. In fact, noth­ing is like­ly to dis­turb Duvalier’s tran­quil­i­ty, unless Aris­tide should return to pow­er. Aris­tide has already dis­closed his plans to hire France’s most con­tro­ver­sial lawyer, Jacques Vergès, for a renewed assault on the ex-dic­ta­tor. Vergès was the attor­ney for Klaus Bar­bie, the Nazi “Butch­er of Lyons,” and was just retained by Mar­lon Bran­do to defend his daugh­ter against charges of com­plic­i­ty in the death of her boyfriend. Vergès con­firms hav­ing met with Aris­tide before the coup, and says he is impa­tient to pick up the Duva­lier dossier. He will pur­sue a new tack, seek­ing to have Baby Doc deport­ed to stand tri­al in Haiti after all. (Incred­i­bly, giv­en the Bar­bie case, Vergès says he hopes Baby Doc will be charged with crimes against human­i­ty.) This might prove dif­fi­cult, since France has no treaty of extra­di­tion with Haiti, but, at the very least, it could prove an inter­est­ing test of Duvalier’s legal sta­tus in France.
    Until such time, Baby Doc can con­tin­ue star­ing at the beach in front of the Carl­ton hotel, and dri­ving alone in his BMW along the Boule­vard of Bro­ken Dictators. ♦